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How To Seal V Band Clamps

  1. clone93gt

    I have a PTK kit on my engine. I have always battled the five bands leaking as well as the kit didnt fit all that well. I have re-installed the kit and program on ditching the downpipe and rebuilding my own as thats where the biggest upshot is, downpipe and waste product gate tube.

    I was wondering what is the best arroyo to make certain the vbands seal on the new downpipe. on the Five-bands on the cross over pipes I have put copper sealant and then install the v-bands and let them sit. I think this has solved that issue just volition exist checking with force per unit area here shortly.

    My programme is to install the turbo and put the v-band in place and weld the v-band to the pipe while tighten downwardly to hopefully stop any warpage. Plan on doing this at all v band locations. For the waste gate I was planning on just running a open wastegate. I have gotten mixed reiviews on the audio and was wondering if anyone has any videos of a mustang with a open waste gate.
    Cheers
    Patrick

  2. Disney Lincoln

    I'm not certain how everyone else does information technology just....

    What I do is marshal the two flanges, so put the Vband on them. Then I tighten it up tight and make sure i've maintained alignment. So I slide one side over the first pipe and weld it in place then I road the other pipe to where it freely slides into the other side and weld it into identify. For me that makes leak free 5-band connections.

  3. bumblebee

    who makes 5-band with a guide in it?

    likewise why hasn't anybody made a five-band with an o-ring groove for cold side install?

  4. CHEVYTOYR1

  5. jaredsamurai

    I recall RPS has the real overnice shouldered ones.

    As for sealing them, I alway draw file them after welding and so striking them with an oil stone after that. It really brings out the high spots. Also do lots of opposing tack welds before finish welding. The more the merrier. Then when you exercise the concluding install of the clamp, go around it with a mallet tapping perpendicular to the flange. This opens up the "five" of the clamp. Re tighten after tapping. Its kind of similar breaking it in. This way its less likely to loosen on the car from vibes and heat cycles.

  6. mandrelbends

    If the vband is warped *at all* it won't seal. Yous would need to flatten both sides and then recondition the surface with well-nigh a 120 grit end. You don't want them too smoothen or them wont mesh well and will leak. This is primarily why male/female and o-ringed vbands suck - you can't resurface them, and nine out of 10 companies will warp them when they weld them.
  7. clone93gt

    So what is the best mode to go along them from warping. I was thinking about clamping them to a exhaust housing to apply that as a estrus sink and brand a ton of tack welds or small over lapping beads
  8. mandrelbends

    You demand a very large estrus sink and weld them very common cold. Nosotros utilize a piece of 3" thick aluminum plate. iv-6 tacks. 1" strip welds. Alternating opposite sides. Let them cool downward between passes.
  9. clone93gt

    Would a Turbo with ice water beingness pumped through the water journals be a big plenty heat sink?
  10. XBRED1

    yup they work but the bolts are shitty after being taken apart maybe ten or so times the threads get weak or at least this has happened with 3 of mine. I cut off the bad threads and welded a new bolt onto the existing stud.
  11. jaredsamurai

    Did the threads accept enuff anti seize? Personally I'd rather a gratis running nut with a lock wire hole rather than a self locking slice thats jump to gall to hell.
  12. turboplymouth

    I've had some that came with a nylock nut. :stupid: I estimate they're not exclusive to exhaust use, but its common enough to not use that nut.
  13. mnm99

    I'k sure it's the wrong manner, but I put mine on a belt sander. Just to get the high spots out ( only a niggling). I accept no leaks over a year so far.
  14. blown385

    TRZ showed me a trick when they welded up mine . They let some of the pipe stick though 1 side and recess the other . After coating it makes a tight seal . Plus its nice to have that lip when y'all trying to put it together . I have to really tweak mine when putting the cross over on and if they weren't like this it would be impossible to practise on my own . Not sure on the warping ........... Mike did not warp them when he welded them .

    Yous tin can see what I hateful in the pics .

    [​IMG] #ad

    [​IMG] #ad

  15. blk mk8

    there is a visitor that makes a v-band gasket at present. the most important thing non to is put it in a belt sander and shave off to much and mess it upward. i had a customer mess upwardly there v-band on our chugalug sander. we had to cut it off and weld on his down pipe and on his back housing.
  16. Chuck L

  17. cdjnight

    I had .030 copper gaskets machined for mine. Havent had a leak since. I had them make em out of same material caput gaskets are fabricated out of.
  18. Chuck L

    "I take to actually tweak mine when putting the cross over on and if they weren't like this information technology would be incommunicable to do on my own ."

    I noticed that the length of your 10 over would permit the install of a flex coupling..That would allow a much easier install, and save much of the stress on the v bands..

  19. blown385

    Yea , I probably should have used 1 , only I idea since everything moved together that it wouldnt exist necessary . Now its coated , and Information technology seems OK for now .
  20. BOSs5.0

    With people putting in gaskets, won't that mess upwards the Five-band clamp or exercise you accept enough room?
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Source: https://www.theturboforums.com/threads/sealing-v-bands.361209/

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